Protero, Adelaide Hills `Aromatico`

Bottle notes

Protero tells a fascinating story of survival in the face of adversity. Stephen and Fiona Pannell purchased the Adelaide Hills vineyard, ‘Protero’, in late 2019. Within days, it was surrounded by the second major bushfire to have threatened the region this century. Ultimately, the vineyard survived this horrendous wildfire, and the courage of those who fearlessly defended it inspired Stephen and Fiona. As Stephen himself said, “we are moved by the bravery behind the history of this vineyard. Our own small act of courage is to try and invest in this special place with a new sense of potential.”

The Pannells have been working with the Protero vineyard, previously owned by Rose and Frank Baldasso, since 2005, when Stephen returned from working a vintage with Aldo Vajra in Barolo. Planted with five clones of Nebbiolo and regularly enjoying cool autumns, Stephen had quickly recognised the vineyard's superb potential. While Nebbiolo remains at the heart of the vineyard, Stephen has also planted Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Barbera and Dolcetto, all varieties he believes are well suited to this cool climate site. His mission to create distinctly Australian expressions of these classic European varieties drives the Protero project. Yet, in his own words, “ultimately it will be Protero that decides which varieties it most faithfully expresses”.

Protero shares the same winemaking philosophy as the Pannells' other projects, SC Pannell and Koomilya wines. For Stephen and Fiona, fruit grown in the right place with considerable attention in the vineyard will always require minimal intervention in the winery. Protero’s ‘Aromatico’ is a blend inspired by the wines of Northern Italy and is well suited to the spicy food the Pannell family loves to eat. Gewürztraminer, Riesling and a tiny amount of Sauvignon Blanc are blended on their lees, left to settle in tank and then racked once. The resulting wine boasts exotic aromas of lychee, orange blossom and lemongrass alongside a beautiful textural quality on the palate. The Nebbiolo is sourced from the original Nebbiolo plantings. Perfumed, brooding and complex, it is a beguiling expression. ‘CAPO’ Nebbiolo, produced in tiny quantities, is made from a single block in the Protero vineyard and stands up to some of the best examples from Italy. We agree with Stephen on both counts when he says, "there aren’t many places outside Piemonte where Nebbiolo has translocated well, but this vineyard is one of those places.”

The fruit for this wine hails from two different vineyards. The Gewürztraminer comes from the Protero vineyard itself which sits at an elevation of 500m on a gentle north-east facing slope. Here the Gewürztraminer was grafted onto pre-existing Merlot plantings. The Riesling is sourced from the neighbouring vineyard which was planted in 2000. The vines face south-west and soils are grey loam over clay flecked with granite.

The third year of the current La Nina cycle was cool and wet, making for a challenging growing season. High winter rainfall continued through spring, delaying budburst and shoot growth. Thankfully a dry, mild summer followed, but harvest was delayed. Despite low crops yields with some long hang time, the resulting wines are elegant with great flavour.

Aromatico is a blend of Gewürztraminer, Riesling, and Sauvignon Blanc. After hand harvesting on the 23rd of March, the Gewürztraminer was settled as juice and fermented to dryness. The riesling harvested on the 4th of April was gently pressed and blended with the Gewürztraminer, until the Sauvignon Blanc was harvested on the 14th of April. Fermentation began on the 1st of May and lasted eight weeks, leaving some residual sugar. The wine was racked once before bottling took place on the 13th of July.

This dry wine is rich and perfumed with aromas of lychee, lemongrass and peach balanced with a lifted floral note of rose oil and ginger flower. The palate is refreshing with lime aromas and rose water leading to a grassy long finish.

Details

Country: Australia,

Region: South Australia

Grapes: Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc

Volume: 75cl

Certification: Vegetarian, Vegan

Closure: Screwcap